01. What Is It?
In 1973, Dr. Loren Pickart of UCSF in the United States isolated tripeptide-1 (GHK) from human serum. Composed of glycine, histidine, and lysine, this naturally occurring small peptide initially gained attention in the pharmaceutical field due to its ability to impact liver cell survival. Further research revealed that tripeptide-1 exhibits strong chelating properties with metal ions, particularly copper ions, forming a stable blue-colored complex known as blue copper peptide (GHK-Cu Powder).
Also referred to as copper peptide, blue copper peptide's INCI name is Copper Tripeptide-1. With the support of copper ions, blue copper peptide surpasses tripeptide-1 in overall efficacy, making it a highly regarded ingredient in the field of effective skincare.
How Does It Work?
● Skin Repair and Wound Healing
GHK is a bioactive regulatory factor naturally present on the α2(I) chain of type I collagen in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Released after skin damage, GHK serves as an early signal for tissue repair. Additionally, endothelial cells express a matrix cell-secreted glycoprotein called SPARC, which degrades to produce GHK, considered one source of GHK in serum.
Copper ions are trace elements required for numerous enzymatic reactions in the body. Approximately 95% of divalent copper ions in human plasma are bound to plasma copper-blue proteins, while the remaining 5% binds with other molecules such as albumin and histidine. Due to its high affinity for copper ions, GHK competes with other molecules, chelating copper ions and delivering them as carriers to the site of injury, promoting wound healing and tissue repair.
Epidermal stem cells, found in the basal layer, differentiate into various skin cells like fibroblasts, melanocytes, and endothelial cells during tissue damage. The loss of proliferation potential in epidermal stem cells is related to reduced expression of integrins and p63 protein. GHK-Cu has been shown to significantly increase the expression of integrins and p63 protein, enhancing the proliferation potential of epidermal stem cells and improving their participation in tissue repair.
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Reshaping Skin Structure and Anti-Aging
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GHK-Cu effectively enhances fibroblast functionality, stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, collagen, and elastin – components of the ECM – to reshape the skin's structure.
Furthermore, it promotes the expression of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-2, MMP-9, and their tissue inhibitors TIMPs. By regulating MMPs and TIMPs, GHK-Cu helps maintain the balance between matrix degradation and synthesis, accelerating tissue reconstruction and improving the appearance of aging skin.
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Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties
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Immune cells use reactive oxygen species and other strong oxidants to combat bacteria, resulting in oxidative damage and inflammation.
Research suggests that GHK-Cu suppresses inflammation by reducing levels of acute inflammatory cytokines such as TGF-β and TNF-α. Moreover, by providing tissues with copper ions, GHK-Cu enhances the activity of superoxide dismutase, inhibiting the generation of reactive oxygen radicals and providing antioxidant effects.
Does It Work?
Since its discovery in 1973, GHK-Cu Powder's positive impact on tissue repair has been substantiated through multiple studies. Due to its high hydrophilicity, its penetration into the epidermis is less stable. To address this, studies have paired GHK-Cu with lipophilic nano-carriers and validated its anti-aging and wrinkle-reduction effects through in vitro and clinical trials.
Effects of GHK-Cu on MMP and TIMP Expression, Collagen, and Elastin Production, and Facial Wrinkle Parameters（DOI: 10.4172/2329-8847.1000166）
● Effects on MMPs and TIMPs
In an in vitro experiment, human fibroblasts were cultured for 24 hours with GHK-Cu solutions of concentrations 0.01, 1, and 100 nM, while the control group received water only. After 24 hours, GHK-Cu-treated cell groups showed a concentration-dependent response in the expression of MMP1, MMP2, TIMP1, and TIMP2 compared to the control group. Notably, MMP1 and MMP2 expression significantly increased at the lowest concentration (0.01 nM), TIMP1 expression increased across all concentrations, and TIMP2 expression decreased significantly at higher concentrations (1 and 100 nM).
This experiment demonstrates GHK-Cu's ability to modulate MMPs and TIMPs, helping to maintain the balance between matrix degradation and synthesis.
● Effects on Collagen and Elastin
In another in vitro experiment, fibroblasts were cultured for 24 hours, then GHK-Cu solutions were added to the culture medium. Results showed that GHK-Cu-treated fibroblasts exhibited a slight increase in collagen and α-elastin synthesis within 48 hours, which significantly increased after 96 hours. Unlike collagen synthesis, which was inversely concentration-dependent, α-elastin synthesis increased by approximately 30% at all concentrations without a clear concentration dependence.
These results illustrate GHK-Cu's ability to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis, reshaping skin structure.
● Effects on Wrinkle Depth and Volume
In a clinical study, 40 female volunteers aged 40 to 65 were divided into two treatment groups. Over an 8-week trial period, all participants used an essence containing nanocarrier-enhanced GHK-Cu on the right side of their face twice daily (morning and evening). The first group used an essence with GHK lipophilic derivative (Matrixyl 3000®) on the left side, while the second group used a negative control product without nanocarrier-enhanced GHK-Cu or GHK lipophilic derivative.
Among 39 participants who tolerated all products well, one stopped due to mild skin reactions. Changes in wrinkle depth and volume were measured for all participants, showing that NRFS reduced wrinkle depth by 23.4% and wrinkle volume by 31.6% compared to SSID. The difference between the two treatment groups was most prominent during weeks 4 to 8.
SSID reduced wrinkle volume by an average of 18.85% in the last 4 weeks, while NRFS reduced it by 49.59% (average percentage change from baseline), indicating a faster change rate in the NRFS group. Compared to the negative control, NRFS reduced wrinkle depth by 32.8% and wrinkle volume by 55.8%.
These results confirm GHK-Cu's efficacy in improving wrinkles.
Market
In recent years, GHK-Cu Powder has gained significant attention and become one of the hottest functional ingredients in the cosmetics market. According to the "Evolution of Demand in the 2022 Chinese Anti-Aging Market Derived from the Anti-Aging Concept" report released earlier, GHK-Cu was the big winner among peptide ingredients in 2021, with a staggering 161.84% year-on-year increase in user volume.
In fact, GHK-Cu has a long history of application in cosmetics. As early as 1991, the US biotechnology company ProCyte Corporation obtained a patent and first applied it in the treatment of tissue repair, anti-aging, and hair growth.
After nearly 30 years of research, the academic community widely recognizes GHK-Cu for its multiple benefits and clear mechanisms of action. As a peptide molecule released during tissue repair, GHK-Cu is gentler and less likely to irritate the skin or cause allergic reactions compared to ingredients like retinol.
Leading brands like The Ordinary, Vinona, and Han Shu have introduced products with GHK-Cu as a prominent functional ingredient.
How to Distinguish Quality
With the growing popularity, there is a wide range of raw material manufacturers in the market. In a sea of varying product quality, how can we distinguish the quality?
Mass spectrometry is an analytical method that measures the ion mass-to-charge ratio, providing a direct and simple approach to determining molecular structure. Known to consist of GHK (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper ions, GHK-Cu has a molecular formula of C14H22N6O4Cu, resulting in a theoretical mass of 402.10.
In the first graph, the main peak molecular weight of the product is 341.00, which is only the molecular weight of GHK. This indicates that GHK and copper ions did not fully chelate. In the second graph, the main peak molecular weight of the product is 402.14, confirming the chelation of GHK and copper ions – GHK-Cu. Additionally, a peak of 803.27 in the mass spectrum of the Redlyn product represents double the GHK-Cu peak.
Why choose qyherb product?
Distinct from certain products on the market that are prone to clumping, discoloration, and unstable properties, our GHK-Cu crystals are evident, with vibrant color, stable shape, and good water solubility. This further proves its high purity, minimal impurities, and stable copper ion complexation advantage.
As one of the most professional manufacturers and suppliers in China, Qyherb is featured by good service and competitive prices. If you would like to wholesale GHK-Cu Powder, please contact us at info@dnbiology.com.